What is safe to clean a hard protective case with?

Mild dish soap in warm water is the default — roughly a teaspoon of soap per cup of water. For disinfection, 70% isopropyl alcohol applied with a microfibre cloth is widely used. Avoid bleach, ammonia-based cleaners, acetone and anything abrasive.

Why not use bleach or ammonia?

Bleach and chlorine products make rubber seals brittle and gradually destroy the waterproof seal, often before any damage is visible. Ammonia-based cleaners can cause stress cracking in polypropylene shells, which shows up as white marks around corners and edges and can propagate into real structural cracks.

What lubricant should I use on the gasket?

Pure silicone grease only, applied as a thin, even sheen. Petroleum-based products such as petroleum jelly or WD-40 cause the rubber to swell and soften, which ruins the seal over time.

How often should I clean a case?

Clean when it is visibly soiled, and always after saltwater, sand or chemical exposure. A full deep clean once or twice a year is enough for most users; over-cleaning adds wear. Inspect the gasket at least annually.

How do I stop a case smelling musty?

The cause is almost always moisture sealed inside. Dry the case fully with the lid open before storage, add a silica gel packet, and store it in a cool, ventilated place rather than a damp basement or a hot attic.

How to Clean a Protective Case: Gasket, Latches & Foam Care

Clean a protective case with mild dish soap in warm water, or 70% isopropyl alcohol on a cloth when you need disinfection. Never use bleach, ammonia, acetone or abrasive cleaners, and lubricate the gasket with pure silicone grease only — petroleum jelly and WD-40 swell rubber and destroy the seal. Dry the case fully with the lid open before you store it.

Safe and Unsafe Cleaners

The shell is usually ABS or polypropylene, and the seal is a rubber gasket. A cleaner that is fine for one can damage the other, which is why the safe list is short.

Product	Verdict	Why
Mild dish soap in warm water (~1 tsp per cup)	Safe	Removes dirt and grease without attacking gasket rubber or the shell
70% isopropyl alcohol on a cloth	Safe for disinfection	Effective on surfaces; higher concentrations can embrittle some rubber compounds over time
Bleach / chlorine cleaners	Never	Makes rubber seals brittle and destroys waterproofing, often invisibly at first
Ammonia-based cleaners	Never	Can cause stress cracking in polypropylene shells, visible as white marks at corners
Acetone, paint thinner, strong solvents	Never	Dissolves plastics and permanently destroys seals
Abrasive powders or pads	Never	Scratches surfaces and creates stress concentration points

Range of protective cases displayed at the factory showroom — A cracked, flattened or gritty gasket is the most common reason a sealed case starts to leak.

Step-by-Step Cleaning

Empty the case completely and take the foam out; shake and brush loose debris from corners
Rinse off heavy mud with a gentle hose setting — never a pressure washer, which can force water past the seals
Wash the exterior with the soap solution and a microfibre cloth, working from top to bottom
Clean the interior with less water so nothing pools, then wipe it dry
Clean the seal groove and the gasket with a barely damp cloth and inspect for cracks or flat spots
Apply a thin, even film of pure silicone grease to the gasket and reseat it without twisting
Leave the case open in a ventilated area until it is completely dry before closing it

Gasket Care Is the Whole Game

Protective case hardware detail with latches and valve — Latches, hinges and the pressure valve are service items — inspect them the way you inspect the seal.

The gasket is the only thing standing between an IP67 rating and a wet interior. Pull it out of its channel, wipe it, clean the channel, inspect for cracks, tears or permanent flat spots, then lubricate with pure silicone grease and reseat it flush. Replace a damaged gasket rather than hoping it recovers — it is the cheapest part of the case and the most consequential.

Latches, Hinges, Valve and Foam

Latches and hinges: open and close each one, flush out grit, and confirm the latch still engages positively
Pressure equalization valve: check that the cap turns freely and the valve is not blocked by debris
Foam: vacuum rather than wash; if it feels crunchy or leaves residue on your fingers it has degraded and should be replaced
Odours: dry fully, then use baking soda or activated charcoal in the closed case for about 48 hours
Storage: cool, dry and ventilated, with a silica gel packet inside; avoid damp basements and hot attics

Quick integrity check: place a dry tissue inside, close the case, submerge it in a tub for 5–10 minutes, then open it. If the tissue is damp, investigate the gasket, the latches and the valve before you trust the case with real equipment.

Keeping a case in service? See the foam insert guide for replacement interiors, review what your IP67 rating actually promises, or browse the current lineup if a shell is beyond repair.

How to Clean and Maintain a Protective Case: Shell, Gasket, Latches and Foam

Safe and Unsafe Cleaners

Step-by-Step Cleaning

Gasket Care Is the Whole Game

Latches, Hinges, Valve and Foam

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